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North & South Mts. EolusAugust 18, 2010 - North Ridge & East Face
I'd been up South Eolus about seven years before this climb but did not tag North Eolus as I was bugging out to catch the train on the same afternoon. Now, I would tag North Eolus and conclude the climbing of the 14'ers if one defines "finishing" as including all of the "soft" summits as well as the traditional hard points. For G this would be #52 and one of the early 40's for Lady G. The Nipper and A would pick up #7 and #2 respectively and everyone would have a good time on these two close but very different summits.
I found that the route had been improved, starting with a signed cut off from the trail that would otherwise lead one to Columbine Pass. The route from there was easily followed in the dark, especially sections across the talus flows that had been transformed into formal switch backed trail sections. The rest of the course to Twin Lakes was little more than a well worn slog in the dark, crossing slick rock sections here and there and then just working its way up the drainage from the Lakes. We topped out on the approach and met up with G at the edge of the Lakes. There was just enough light to We crossed the creek below the lakes and intercepted the path, a course well worn and leaving no doubt as to being the regular route. My group of three took the lead and we slowly but without intent, put distance between us and G as both groups leisurely worked their way up the valley. The route up the valley is curious as it appears to be terminated by cliffs however as one gains elevation, the existence of a ramp becomes obvious, leading to the climber's The ramp to the saddle was now obvious as we finished a ratty section of braided trail through small talus and scree that leads to the start of the incline. The ramp is composed of a set of linear weaknesses or in the rock that comprises the headwall below the Eolus "catwalk" section and we easily scampered up to the flat area that lies below the saddle between the two peaks. We turned and waited a bit for G and LG to catch up before we climbed a steeper section of solid rock for about 40 feet to arrive on the saddle proper. There are certainly easier routes than the class 4 route I chose but none of us were looking to reduce the terrain to the lowest degree of difficulty.
We took a sip and snack before moving back down the flank to regain the Catwalk and pickup LG as we traversed back to the North/South Eolus summit. As we came to the narrows of the Catwalk, a group of four passed us, decked out in large packs, ropes and a plethora of climbing gear. I was amazed, For me, North Eolus would be a new summit, a soft summit, but the last "summit" that any nitpicker could insist upon before granting the tile of "finisher". The route to the top of North Eolus is just a scramble up a short and solid granite ridge to the top. The climb took about ten minutes at most and soon enough Nipper, A and I were on top. G and LG asked of the difficulty and I guessed the route was 2+ at worst and after a moment of discussion, they We took in the incredible views, not only of the Chicago Basin Peaks but of the Grenadiers, the Turrets, and in the distance, the Wilsons and Rio Grande Pyramid. We were contemplating a climb of Windom so everyone was soon on their way back down to the saddle and then onto the trail that would drop us with a minimum of fuss at Twin lakes. I would guess that our We arrived at the Twin Lakes and then dropped steadily down the developed trail that I had not seen much of on the way up as our ascent was in the predawn darkness. I will note that the amount of work put into the talus field crossings is impressive for sure. We dropped back to the trail While we had enjoyed a wonderful sunny day, we did not have the pleasure of a similar star lit night. The weather came in after dinner and the rains began again. We retreated to the tents and that was it for the social aspects of the evening. The next morning we awoke to low scud, no more We all made the train and a few hours later we were back in Durango for a good meal, after which the skies opened up and Durango was drenched. I was quite content that we'd come out for the night and everyone was satisfied to go tentless in a motel before we headed back to Cheyenne the next day. All in all everyone had a good trip and scored at least two new summits. For me, North Eolus was the last of the 14'er soft summits and perhaps in the minds of some, constituted the end of the 14'er quest. However for me, the end had come many years before at the 54 mark . . . but another 14k+ foot point, hard or soft sure didn't hurt my feelings any.
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